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 Amphibian Care Sheet

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Join date : 1970-01-01

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PostSubject: Amphibian Care Sheet   Amphibian Care Sheet Icon_minitimeWed Nov 23, 2011 12:58 pm

Care Sheet for Amphibians

By Kevin Stevens ¡V Herpetologist. Former President and Journal Editor of the International Herpetological Society

Substrates that can be used include sphagnum moss, forest bedding (sterile peat) and amphifoam. Amphifoam is the easiest to keep clean, but is not suitable for many ground dwelling species and is best suited for treefrogs and Fire-bellied toads. Other species may be more prone to sores when using amphifoam. Rinse with water frequently to remove dirt, it should last for several months before renewal is necessary. Sphagnum moss needs to be damp, and can be rinsed with water to clean. Replace when smelly, usually no more than about two weeks. Forest bedding also needs to be damp. once soiled will need replacing. Spot cleaning (ie removal of faecal matter daily) will prolong the usable life. Forest bedding is ultimately suited to burrowing species and a deep as possible layer should be provided.

Hygiene is very important. Change water every day. Dirty water will allow the amphibians skin to absorb toxins and will lead to infections and death. There is a small risk of catching salmonella from amphibians (as with all animals), so ensure vivarium and your own personal hygiene is good. Always wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap after handling.

Always condition the water with Reptisafe/Aquatize/Mistimize.

When using amphifoam cut to shape of the tank or vivarium and shape it to allow a shallow water area to form once it has water to the same depth as the foam. When using forest bedding or sphagnum moss a shallow water bowl must be provided.

Hides need to be provided, cork bark or one of the many resin decor items are suitable. Branches, artificial plants and other items can all be utilised.

Handling needs to be kept to a minimum, try to not to handle at all other than for cleaning out the vivarium. The skin of many species are easily damaged by handling. Always wet your hands before handling and never handle when hands are contaminated with chemicals such as after shave.

Several species are also mildly toxic such as Fire-bellied toads and Fire salamanders. Care should be taken especially if handling with cuts or broken skin. Wash hands afterwards.

Feed at least every other day, babies are best fed every day. Provide a mixed diet of quiet, black and brown crickets along with wax worms and earth worms. Feed the crickets on Bug grub and use Water bites for their water. This will fill the crickets guts with all the vitamins and minerals the frog / toad requires, so when they eat the crickets they get this benefit 100. Bug grub can also be fed to the wax worms, mix it up with honey and glycerine to form a ball. Some keepers also dust the live food with multi-vitamin powders, but the powders usually come off in the damp conditions.

Tropical species must be heated with a heat mat or cable. A temperature of about 26-28¢X is ideal, and many species will tolerate this with no drop at night. Temperate species prefer cool temperatures and an average room temperature will be adequate. Your advisor will tell you which species and what heating you have.

The vivarium can be glass or plastic. Tall ones are a must for treefrogs. Ensure what ever is used is secure, most species are capable of escaping through the smallest of gaps. Escapees will die quickly.

Aquatic species should be kept in a similar way as fish. Many species do not require heating and are fine at room temperature. Filtration is very useful and should be provided. Decor can be simple or more complicated with items of decor.


It is vitally important that you have considered the following points
1. Amphibians can be long lived, often living around 10-20 years.
2. You will need to keep live insects for feeding, they can and often do escape.
3. It is unfair not to appreciate other family members fears of reptiles / amphibians. It would also be unfair to the animal as it is not their fault and often the consideration is to return them if suddenly granny or aunty won¡¦t visit anymore! .
4. They are escape artists - there are no easy solutions to finding an escaped amphibian - don't lose them in the first place!
5. Most species remain small at a maximum of around 8 inches, the majority are much smaller!. Ask to see an adult if unsure.


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