FAO tayer... rabbit care sheet xxx

starting you off...

HOUSING

Recommended size for housing your rabbit is 6'x2'x2'
Your rabbit will also need and area to exercise in every day.
Make sure your hutches and runs are safely built, and secure from predators.
Rabbits are very clean and will usually only eliminate in one place, put a litter tray there with litter (non-clumping) to make cleaning their homes quick and easy. Change litter on a daily basis.
Bedding is optional, I would recommend ____________________
Rabbits like having an area of privacy and security, for example a wooden hut or an igloo.
Do NOT house unneutered boys and girls together or two unneutered boys to prevent unwanted litters or fighting.
It will be necessary to provide shelter and extra warmth for outdoor rabbits in adverse weather.

TOYS

Gnaw toys, balls, tunnels; there are lots of toys available for rabbits to prevent boredom.
Try stuffing a toilet paper tube with hay and cubes of carrots (or your rabbit's fave treat)
Encourage foraging by hiding their food amongst their hay

DIET

Your rabbit currently eats ______________
If you want to change foods mix the new food in with the old food gradually over a week or so to avoid any tummy upsets.
I recommend using complete rabbit nuggets, not a mix. Mixed food encourages selective feeding.
80% of your rabbit's diet MUST be made up of hay for fibre and dental health. Provide unlimited amounts of hay.
Always make sure your rabbit has fresh clean water at all times.
A small amount of food will do, split into morning and nighttime feeds.
Feed treats sparingly to avoid obesity; always introduce any new foods slowly.
Rabbits MUST eat, if your rabbit becomes anorexic even for a day it is at serious risk. Seek veterinary advice immediately.

GROOMING

Check your rabbit's bottom everyday for excretement. Dirty bottoms attract flies and lead to flystrike.
Brush your rabbit at least once a week, more if they are going through a moult.
Clip nails with small animal nail clippers, a few millimeters below the quick. This might need to be done more or less often, depending on the rabbit. If you catch the quick the bleeding can be stopped with cornflour. Keep an eye on this in case of infection.
Grooming allows you to check the condition of your rabbit and feel any lumps or bumps.
Clean eyes with cooled boiled water, using a different piece of cotton wool for each eye. Runny eyes could signal a problem.

HANDLING

Rabbits being prey animals do not often like being picked up.
NEVER pick a rabbit up by it's ears.
Try leaving your rabbit and letting it come to you until it gets used to you, rewarding it with a treat.
You can teach your rabbit words and tricks, e.g. come to call, bedtime, etc...

MEDICAL

ALWAYS neuter your rabbit, unneutered rabbits are prone to aggression and some cancers.
Myxi jabs and VHD jabs are needed.
A product called Rearguard is available to treat your rabbit's bottoms to prevent flystrike.
Check your rabbit over regularly for any changes.
As prey animals rabbits hide pain well, if your rabbit is lethargic or different in any way it may have been hiding a problem for a little while, seek veterinary advice immediately.

xxx

that is fabatastic josie....
iv given ya a big thank you x

i will add no lettuce, coz like me some people are un-aware.

2 boys un-neutered may fight...i was told that its fine if they are in the same litter?? i will check that when i have them sexed.

thank you thank you thank you x

More to add tay but that's got the ball rolling for you a list of yes and no foods etc... I'd never house boys together cos you just don't know when their hormones will flare up like in spring, but that's just me xxx

remember all new foods must be introduced in moderation, as some foods such as cabbage may upset their stomachs.
avoid feeding "gassy" foods as they can cause bloat.
foods like apple and carrots are high in sugar so bare this in mind when feeding.
pet shop treats are likely to be high in sugar and calories, your rabbit will be heathier feeding on vegetables and fruits.
here are a few examples...

YES FOODS

herbs
carrots
cabbage
brocolli
banana


NO FOODS

lettuce
onions
garlic
lentils

(you can add some more tayer )

need to add... about ears, location of hutch (dry, not drafty etc), worming xxx

i have a few leaflets that covers some of this!!
ill have to type it up....coz if i make it too long people wont read it!!

if they care about their rabbits they'll read every word tay and know it off by heart... you dont want to sell to people who dont xxx

yeah you are right there, i read all my leaflets that were given to me....

exactly tay, they need mummies like you and me, i know you'll be picky about their new homes xxx

This is really good ladies... Hard work has definately gone into making sure new mums n dads of bunnies have the correct information . Well done!

I have a friend who took on two rescued brothers who started to fight together, even after being neutered so I guess it's a posdibilty of clashes at anytime too.

xoxox

rabbit injuries can be horrendous too, they really mean it! def wouldnt risk putting two unneutered boys together, neutered boys can get along fine once they're bonded, but at the same time you know what boys are like... i reckon buster gets a bit cheeky in the spring time even though he has been seen to xxx

its josie's hard work, she is a gem...

i have googled it, and iv read the same, iv also msg'd the breeder that i got my 2 off...she hasnt replied as yet....but i read you have upto 5months before they start to get nasty!! which sounds about right, coz thats when fleet started getting frisky with ffluer.

Is it right that they cannot have cauliflower leaves as well - sure I read it somewhere

cauliflower is gassy...
found a nice website on herbs [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] xxx

Good post Josie .. i have just registered mine with the vet .x

Thank you Josie - will go and take a peek now x

it's quite a nice little website i think xxx