Care Sheet for Uromastyx and Chuckwallas
These sheets provide due diligence and also provide the means of a sales register.
These sheets provide due diligence and also provide the means of a sales register.
Care sheets all designed for you to use at the point of sale with your retail customer.
Dab lizards (Uromastyx) and Chuckwallas
By Kevin Stevens – Herpetologist. Former President and Journal Editor of the International Herpetological Society
They need a vivarium, constructed of wood, around 36 inches long for a baby, and around 48 inches long for an adult. Do not be tempted to house a baby in an adult size vivarium to cut costs. This would lead to high stress levels and lack of appetite. As they live in underground tunnels in the wild this can be incorporated within the design of your vivarium with an underfloor cave system.
Provide a single ceramic conical heater at one end of the cage to provide a hot and cool end. This type of heater is a very powerful “bulb” that gives off no visible light whatsoever. A mesh cage around the heater must be provided to stop the Uromastyx (or keeper) burning himself. Because this heater provides no visible light it is ideal for heating vivaria at night as well as day and thus eradicates the need for the commonly seen heat mat and bulb set-ups provided for many species of basking lizards. Ceramic conical heaters need to be connected to a good thermostat, one of the pulse proportional varieties is most suitable – some even have a night time drop function. Daytime temperature under the basking heater needs to be around 36-38°C, and at night an ambient temperature of around 18-20°C is suitable. Make all connections with heat resistant cable and use all correct holders and reflectors.
Ensure that even from an early age a fluorescent tube that gives off at least 8% U.V.B. is provided. Tube’s are best sited no further away from the basking Uromastyx than around six inches, further than this the rays are no longer useful. Also remember to change the tube every six to six months, after this the rays given off are no longer powerful enough to be of use. It is also useful to provide a full spectrum fluorescent tube in addition. This will provide good levels of U.V.A. and full colour spectrum light closely resembling the suns natural rays, this is often thought to be useful in the psychological well being of many reptiles, and certainly fussy feeders respond well to a full spectrum tube in addition to a U.V.B..
A diet consisting of about 80% greens (Kale, Spring greens, Savoy Cabbage, dandelion leaves (must be well washed and free from pesticides), spinach, water cress, parsley), 10% mixed vegetables (grated root vegetables (parsnips, carrots etc.), peas, beans, broccoli , frozen mixed veg), 5%fruits (tomato, apples, pears, banana, grapes, kiwi, mango) and mixed bird seed to make the rest of the diet. Dry foods are available from several manufacturers and can be given in addition to the more natural food items. Feed at least once a day. Even though most Uro’s will eat and seem to enjoy live insects this is a no-no, too much animal protein can lead to (amongst other things) gout, heart problems etc. Ensure that all natural food items are fortified with a good multivitamin powder such as Nutrobal and calcium carbonate such as Calypso.
Levels of humidity - or dampness in the air, needs to be extremely low – often well below 30%. A floor covering or substrate that works well in Uromastyx husbandry is beech chip. This is a natural product and ensures a drying effect within the vivarium. All flooring substrates have a downside, including that they can be eaten causing gut impaction, but this is a very rare occurrence. Remember plenty of hiding places must be provided along with climbing branches and other cage décor can be provided to the owner’s taste.
Vivarium hygiene is of utmost importance, ensure that a daily spot clean along with daily water changes happens as matter of course. A full strip down and sterilization of the contents of the vivarium must occur at least once every ten to fourteen days. Only use a disinfectant for reptile use. Remember, there is a small risk of catching salmonella from reptiles, as with all animals, so make sure vivarium and your own personal hygiene is high – wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap after handling!
It is vitally important that you have considered the following points;
1. Some species can live for around 20 years – please ask for further details should this worry you.
2. It is unfair not to appreciate other family members fears of reptiles – do not purchase if there is a risk of having to return it to us due to someone’s phobia.
3. They are escape artists - there are no easy solutions to finding an escaped lizard - don't lose them in the first place!
4. All lizards can bite. There is no venom, but they can bite hard. This is unlikely to be any worse than a hamster bite.
5. Maximum size is around 12 to 15 inches, ask to see an adult (if we have one!) if unsure.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Wed Nov 23, 2011 1:05 pm
